Solve the battery or ignition problems of your xiaomi scooter

This tutorial aims to help people who have scooter power on issue. It seems that some owners of scooters dating from 2016 have problems due to poor management of Regenerative Braking system . We advise all those who have one to put “WEAK” the level of ” Range of charge mode” in your ninebot app or mi home app

This article is a synthesis of infos found dealabs  (thanks b18685) and forocoches  for pictures

1er case, the easiest

Disassemble the protection that protects the battery pack

Without disassembling anything else, just unplug the large red and black wires from the green round control console (no need to remove the battery!)

  • Connect the power supply to the scooter as if to recharge and wait 30 seconds
  • Disconnect power cable
  • Reconnect the large red and black wire connector
  • Press the start button on the scooter

If this works, close the battery cover and set the” Range of charge mode” setting to “weak” on the ninebot or Mi home app until firmware version 1.31 is available. You can adjust your rear brake manually so that it is a bit more efficient without rubbing on the disc.

2nd case more annoying but feasible: connector desoldered

A connector has been desoldered or made a bad contact (red circle, we do not see all of them in this picture)

Check their connection and redo the solder especially by unplugging ALL the wires that connect battery to the control console and of course by locating them beforehand with a small drawing (no need to disassemble the battery)

Also check that cables are not damaged

  • After welding, reconnect the wires
  • Connect power cable for 30s
  • unplug power cable
  • Power on the scooter
  • If she turn on close the battery cover

3rd case / A fuse has blown

motor brake when the battery is 100% sent too much juice during a throttle lag) (if you are in “middle” or “strong” mode and firmware version <1.31) the system has blown the “Z” fuse ”

Detailed tutorial coming soon




46 thoughts on “Solve the battery or ignition problems of your xiaomi scooter

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  1. How can we identify the year of production? The ninebot/segway app states battery production date 2017-02-20, and a sticker on the box the scooter came with states 2016?
    As long as i turned on WEAK in the settings nothing should happen?


  2. I have the problem since yesterday after 5 days happy driving…. X_X
    I was braking and the scooter suddenly powered off. It can not be turned on again. I have also charged over 8 hours and no effort.
    I tried the 2 methods above and still cannot turn on. It seems to be a common issue because in youtube there are some videos show the same problem. But some videos ( show that the TRANSISTOR is kaputt while others show that the battery control is kaputt.

    I really dont know what to do… Can someone help me with more specific tutorial?

    Thanks a lot!


  3. I have a problem with my m365, since i braked with a fully charged battery, the scooter turned off and i could not start it again. I opend the battery cover and the battery light lights continuously blue. Can you help me?


      1. Was your battery 100% charged up when you were braking? What firmware you had during that moment?

        I have the same problem, but my battery was just around 30%, firmware 1.3.0, scooter production date 2016-11. Just pushed the brakes and it turned off.

        Do you think changing Z fuse will solve my problem?


  4. Is the tutorial announced in the article still coming? And way more important could anyone please tell where to get a matching replacement fuse?


  5. hI BOWO i am having the same problem, would you give me advice? If you are in Indonesia would you send your phone number to 082123266979?


    1. did u solve the problem…..I also have this problem….i also live in Jakarta……I buy from Jakartanotebook…..only play 1 week then broken….and they they want to repair….XXX


  6. My scooter just stopped when working hard going up a hill. I was convinced it was going to be the fuse and got replacements. But I was surprised to find: (a) two fuses and (b) neither was blown.

    The only sign of life is when I press the ‘reset’ button and a LED flashes four times. Otherwise completely dead so I think the battery management PCB is faulty. I can only find a whole battery pack as a replacement; no one seems to sell just the PCB.



      1. Jamie, double check the fuse. Over mine fuse power was going through but not fully…strange… on the first look the fuse doesn’t seemd to be blown, but it was.


    1. The fuses fitted to the board can be found here:

      However, you need to be reasonably skilled at soldering otherwise you will lift the copper tracks from the circuit board. Others have used wire-ended fuses and I got a pack of these: but they were not needed.

      Both of these are ‘low voltage’ fuses and not suitable for utility power voltages but are perfectly OK at the battery voltages.

      I do wish my problem was just needing a fuse change!!


      1. Thank you for reply.
        I have question for you. I suffered same problem ‘power out’ and also LED flash,because hard breaking. Did you solve this problem?


      2. I have the new firmware 1.3.1 and was not braking when the power failed. In fact, I was going slowly up a steep hill and the motor was working very hard. Now I see no LEDs lit at all except 4 brief flashes in red when I connect charger or press reset button.

        I have the circuit board on the bench and I see that I have TWO Z fuses but neither has blown.


  7. Bonjour,
    J’ai le même problème que Peter.
    Et j’attends une réponse du revendeur qui me renvoie à ce site.
    Quelle solution dans ce cas?


  8. Xiaomi global customer service has been very polite but also unhelpful. Because they do not sell the scooter in Europe, they will not tell me how I can get it repaired; they will not sell me spare parts and they will not give me access to service manuals or circuit diagrams.

    Instead, they direct me back to the seller in China but I cannot send the scooter back due to recent EU legislation that classes Lithium Ion batteries of over 100 watt hours as “dangerous goods”. DHL said it was absolutely forbidden to send Lithium batteries to China. It is not clear why batteries can be sent FROM China to Europe.

    I am now working on replacing the large MOSFET chip which is type MDE1932 and made by Magnachip. So far, I have not found a replacement for this apart from one which is physically bigger but electrically the same. I will get one of these to see if the blue light will come back on.

    I will update this thread when I get the result.


    1. OK, the blue light is back on. That wasn’t a job for the faint-hearted or those not reasonably skilled with a soldering iron.

      I replaced all of the power components on the Battery Management System printed circuit board. The reasoning behind this was to cause minimum stress to the copper tracks because the PCB is irreplaceable while the components are cheap.

      The first thing to do was to identify the components. If you are an electronics engineer, the following description will mean something to you:

      Q8 is the big MOSFET in a TO-263 package and it is an MDE1932
      Q7 and Q9 are the smaller MOSFETs (TO-252) and are MDD1902
      D9 is a Schottky common cathode diode (TO-252), part number MBRD10100CT

      The BMS chip is a BQ7693003 and the microprocessor is STM8L151K6. I did not replace these two tiny chips; they are beyond my skill and have been customized.

      I had to use equivalents for the power components because suppliers wanted me to buy a minimum quantity of 2500 of the proper ones.
      Instead of the MDE1932, I used an Infineon 120 amp MOSFET, part number: IPB038N12N3.
      Instead of the two MDD1902 40 amp MOSFETs, I used MDD1903s and I only had to buy 25!
      Instead of the Schottky double diode, I used SBR10120CTL which I only had to buy 10!

      Some words of advice when removing the old components: Do not try to get them off whole. Cut the pins so that you only have to desolder the big drain of the MOSFETs and later remove the remainder of the source and gate connections. Again, this is to minimize damage to the PCB.

      Having replaced the components, I cleaned off the excess flux with isopropyl alcohol and re-assembled, connecting the cell balancing connector and the thick black wire that I had removed in order to disconnect all power while re-working the PCB. After the red LED flashed a couple of times, the blue LED started flashing and I cheered! I had made a bit of a mess removing the plastic shield so I shall have to find some other way of protecting the battery assembly.

      I re-fitted the battery to the scooter and was pleased when it all worked. The blue LED flashes faster when the motor is running and I had a moment’s panic when the red LED came on while charging but this seems to be normal.

      I don’t know for sure which component was faulty but I believe it to be Q7. It’s difficult to test MOSFETS on a PCB but quite easy when they’re not connected. Q7 was the only one that wouldn’t turn on but I may have damaged it in removing it from the PCB.

      Anyway, as of now, the scooter is repaired. Let’s see how long it will last!!

      Please ask if you have any questions.


  9. I have the same problem. I used scooter for half a year without a problem (around 200km), than upgraded to FW 1.3.1 and after 3km of driving at the last braking from 10km to 0kmh the scooter powered itself down. Battery was on 40%. I hope only the fuse is problematic. Peter I hope you will stay online if I will have questions for you when repairing or a connection to you?


  10. I have a question.
    My charger dosen’t work…
    When I open the scooter, BMS state is only blue light with no flash. Could you answer this state or solve this problem? 😦


    1. Yes, one of the battery welded connections has come loose and you will have to solder it. See the second case at the top of this blog.

      You may see that the number of lights on the control panel shows a low charge in the battery but the cells that are still connected are fully charged so the blue light is on steady and the charger light is green. When you have reconnected the broken connection, the blue light will flash and the charger light will go red.


  11. Also, my mijia 2 BMS damaged. But everything is fine except BMS.
    I’d like to change BMS board.. Anyone know where I can buy new BMS board?


  12. Hey guys I was reading your advices, I kind of have a different problem. I can turn on the scooter, but only first light is blinking, and it doesn’t give me the full speed.

    I also opened the case, and see inside blue light is blinking. Does anyone know how to fix this?


    1. Nick, do you get a red or a green light on the charger when it is plugged in to the scooter? If you try charging when the case is open, does the blinking blue light change to red?


      1. Now yes when I took off the wires and put them back. It seems like I fixed the problem, but is it gonna appear the same problem?


    2. Here’s another item to add to the knowledge base. I found that I could not charge the battery, even though it was half empty. The light on the charger was green and when I opened the case the battery light was flashing blue. OK, I thought, we have a faulty charger or connection but it all tested good.

      I then pressed the battery reset button, near the blue LED and the red LED started flashing and the charger showed a red light as the battery resumed charging.

      Looks like the microprocessor on the BMS needed rebooting.


  13. Everyone should try upgrading the BMS firmware to v1.1.5. I don’t know what problems it fixes but I have updated two batteries and they both work well.


  14. Hi guys, I have a completely different problem.

    M365 came today, unpacked it, found scratches? Did this happen to you too?

    The dramatic part is that the engine never started when pressing the handle, it never ignited. I’ve tried point 1) in the blog, no luck. Just to be clear, I can chargebit, I can open the lights just that the engine won’t start.

    Ever came across this problem?


  15. Just sharing my experience in case will help someone. Yesterday while trying to start my scooter I noticed that the leds are not lighting up and scooter won’t start. After a bit of research I came across this website and by following the 1 step I open the battery cover and checked for any internal damage. While I try to unplug and plug back the cables nothing happend. Connecting the charger I noticed that the blue led on the battery ( as some videos on YouTube show ) was not flashing but instead a red led light flasing 4 times and stop, maybe some error code.

    Following the step 2 I found that one of the connector was desoldered, as shown in the image on step 2. So I open carefully the plastic around it and soldered the connector and now all is fine working again. I believe that this happens due to changing the tires to tubeless ones which produced more vibration. Just a guess. Well, that’s my story hope it will help others. Many thanx to the one that took time to put together this tutorials and steps.


  16. Hi again!
    I let the unofficial service to repair my blown fuse Z. The Z fuse was upgraded with additional cable and connector for car fuses. The fuse i can change now myself if that happens again. I am now using 15A fuse and the scooter works like before.


  17. Changes to my post on 30.7.2017.
    I upgraded from 1.2.9 to 1.3.0 and not to 1.3.1.
    Ninebot 4.0 app shows now 1.3.0 as the latest. The app suggested me to update the BMS to 1.1.5 which I did now after the fuse repair.


  18. can anyone tell me what each of the flashing lights signify please?

    i’ve had it constantly flash red, switch between blue and red (sometimes alternating, sometimes random), 4 red flashes and just nothing.

    i’ve checked the fuses and temp sensor and they are working fine, and depending on the state of the lights power does come through into the cables which attach to the other board. all wires on the battery controller seem to be ok too.

    the lights sometimes jump into action when the controller is removed from the casing, and then when moved further or placed back inside it cuts out again (this does suggest wiring, but everything seems to be ok)

    does this sound like i will have to replace all of those other components on the board? i’m beginning to think so, but would like a second opinion before i jump into it.

    thank you for your help, jamie


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